To make a shop-made wood pull in Mozaik, build a five-piece (traditional) door that uses your own solid board stock as the pull material, add an inside-frame profile that shapes the gripping edge, then create dedicated left-hinge, right-hinge, and drawer-front styles and apply them to your cabinets. The pull is built right into the part, so there is no separate hardware to order or install.
This guide follows Mozaik's official walkthrough. Watch the original on Mozaik's channel:
What a shop-made wood pull is
Instead of drilling and installing a separate metal or plastic pull, you add a strip of solid wood to the top of a drawer front or the edge of a door, shaped so your fingers can grip it. Because the pull is built into the part, there is no separate hardware to display, order, or install. The trade-off: this is a traditional (five-piece) door, so Mozaik will not bore hinge cups or pull holes for you on these parts. Those operations have to be handled separately.
The build has two halves: first you set up the materials and styles in your libraries, then you apply the new door and drawer-front styles to the cabinets already on your job and clean up how the doors split.
Step 1: Set up the pull material as board stock
The pull itself is solid wood, so it comes from board stock (S4S), not sheet stock. In the Settings tab, open the Materials tab and go to your main materials library.
- Copy an existing board stock material (in the video, the 3-1/2" hardwood at the bottom of the list) and paste it as a new material.
- Name it (for example, "Shop-Made Wood Pull").
- Set the thickness of this board stock to the width of the pull you want sitting on the top or edge of the part — 1-1/2" in the example.
- Keep or set the texture you want (the video used Red Birch).
Why thickness equals pull width: in a five-piece door, the "thickness" value of this board stock determines how far the pull projects, which reads as the pull's width on the finished part.
Step 2: Set up the door panel as panel (sheet) stock
The recessed door panel is sheet stock.
- Still in Materials, copy a material and paste it as a new panel stock.
- Name it (for example, "Shop-Made Wood Pull Panel") and set the sheet size (48 x 96 in the example).
- Set the panel thickness to 3/4".
You need both a board stock and a panel stock because this is a five-piece door — the frame/pull parts come from board stock and the center panel comes from sheet stock.
Step 3: Build a material template for the door
- Open Material Templates in your materials libraries and go to the Door category.
- Create a new template and name it ("Shop-Made Wood Pull").
- Select the first part, hold Shift, and select through the panelized part so the whole set is selected.
- For the board stock selection, assign your "Shop-Made Wood Pull" board stock (the 1-1/2" material).
- For the door panel / drawer panel, assign the 3/4" sheet stock.
The video also defaulted the panel texture to the same Red Birch so everything matched out of the box; you can change any texture later with the pencil/edit icon.
Step 4: Create the inside-frame profile (the pull shape)
This profile is what gives the pull its gripping curve. In the Libraries tab, open Doors and go to the Profile Library.
- Add a new profile and name it ("Shop-Made Wood Pull").
- Set the profile thickness to 3/4".
- Select the relevant edge and add a point. (Y is the vertical dimension, X is the horizontal.)
- Set that point at 1/4".
- Select the line below the node you just placed and apply a bulge. The video tried -3/8" first, found it too large, and settled on -1/4".
That negative bulge is what carves the concave finger pull into the edge.
Step 5: Create the left-hinge door style
- In the Libraries tab under Doors, add a new traditional door and name it (e.g. "Shop-Made Wood Pull Left Hinge").
- Zero out the rail and center style values to start clean.
- Set the style width to 3/4".
- Because this is a left-hinge door, the pull goes on the right side — so set the left style width to 0.
- Set the panel recess to 3/4" so the back of the panel lines up flush with the edge of the pull.
Then point the profile at the right places: working with this traditional door in the Settings tab under Profiles, set the outside edge to square, set the panel to no profile, and set the inside frame profile to your "Shop-Made Wood Pull" profile.
Confirm it in the 3D view — the pull should now appear on the door. Remember: as a traditional door, Mozaik will not bore hinge cups or pulls on it.
Step 6: Create the right-hinge door style
- Add another door named for the right hinge (e.g. "Shop-Made Wood Pull Right Hinge").
- Zero everything out again. The panel recess stays 3/4" and the style width stays 3/4".
- Because the hinge is on the right, the pull goes on the left — so this time set the right style width to 0.
- Check it in the 3D viewer; you now have a mirror of the left-hinge door.
Step 7: Create the drawer-front style
- Add another product named for the drawer (e.g. "Shop-Made Wood Pull Drawer").
- Set the top rail to 3/4" and zero out everything else.
- Set the recess to 3/4".
- Set the product type to drawer front.
The drawer numbers self-adjust once the front is placed in the job, so the values you enter here are just a starting point.
Step 8: Apply the new styles as defaults
- In the Settings tab, open Doors and Drawer Fronts.
- Swap in the new shop-made wood pull door and drawer-front styles as the defaults (the video used "Use Defaults" to bring them in).
They may look wrong on the preview at this stage — that is expected and gets fixed on the cabinets next.
Step 9: Fix paired doors by splitting them
Cabinets with a pair of doors need each door handled individually so the correct hinge side (and therefore pull side) shows.
- On the cabinet, double-click to edit, go to the Face tab, select the cabinet, and Split the pair into a left door and a right door.
- One door will already be correct; the other usually needs its style swapped. For the wrong one, open Overrides > Door Style, then pick the matching left-hinge or right-hinge wood-pull style.
- Confirm in the 3D viewer, then OK out.
Repeat this on each wall, base, and sink-base cabinet that has paired doors.
Step 10: Adjust the gap with the frameless mid-reveal parameter
Important gotcha on frameless cabinets: once you split a pair into two individual doors, the pair gap parameter no longer controls the gap between them.
- In the cabinet Parameters under the Door category, the pair gap has no effect on split doors.
- Instead, delete/ignore the pair gap and adjust the frameless mid-reveal (FLRevM) parameter — that is what now drives the gap between the two split doors on a frameless cabinet.
In the video, changing the pair gap to 1" did nothing, but changing the frameless mid-reveal visibly opened or closed the gap.
Step 11: Save and check the cut list
- Save the job and review it in 3D — every door should now be hinged correctly with the pull on the correct side.
- On the Cut List tab, you will see the S4S/board-stock pull material, the door styles (top rail, left style, right style) with cabinet numbers, the correct pull thickness and length, and the panel stock as its own line. The cut list comes out correct based on your reveals.
The only thing you give up is automated cup/pull boring on these traditional doors; in exchange you get a clean, custom integrated wood pull and an accurate cut list.
Get it done-for-you
You can set this up yourself using the steps above. If you'd rather skip the setup, PAC's Mozaik training and done-for-you services can help — phillanton.com.
Full disclosure: this guide is published by Phill Anton Consulting.
FAQ
Why do I need both board stock and panel stock for this?
Because a shop-made wood pull is built as a five-piece (traditional) door. The pull and frame parts come from solid board stock (S4S), while the recessed center panel comes from sheet stock. Setting up both lets the cut list separate them correctly.
Will Mozaik drill the hinge cups and pull holes on these doors?
No. These are traditional doors, so Mozaik does not bore hinge cups or pull holes on them. The integrated wood pull replaces a separate hardware pull, and any hinge boring has to be handled separately from this method.
Why doesn't the pair gap change the spacing between my doors?
Once you split a paired door into a separate left and right door, the pair gap parameter stops applying. On a frameless cabinet, the gap between the two split doors is controlled by the frameless mid-reveal (FLRevM) parameter instead.
What controls how wide the pull sits on top of the part?
The thickness value of the board stock material you set up for the pull. In the example it was set to 1-1/2", which is the width of the pull sitting on the top edge of the door or drawer front.