In Mozaik you cannot draw a true parametric ellipse, but Phill Anton Consulting (PAC) shows how to build “parametric-ish” elliptical vent holes — he calls each one a “petal” — in MDF shaker doors. You add four user parameters to the door’s construction method, draw each petal as a pocket using four points and a bulge, machine it with a tool that clears the full depth, and then drive the whole pattern from Job Parms. This was done in Mozaik 14 (works in 13).
What is the “petal” vent-hole technique in Mozaik?
It is a way to put repeating elliptical vent cutouts on an MDF door and still drive them from parameters. Phill calls each ellipse a “petal” (like a flower petal). Because Mozaik has no true parametric ellipse, each petal is approximated with four points — two pairs stacked on the centre line — that are then bulged outward, giving a near-elliptical shape that updates when you change the numbers. He notes the same user-parameter approach also works on a simple round hole and on other vent patterns.
Which Mozaik version do I need?
Phill built this in Mozaik version 14. He says you can also do it on version 13, and if you are on version 12 you should update. The “use pocket tool” option he relies on was introduced in a recent v13 build.
What user parameters do I create, and where?
Because (at the time of the video) Mozaik does not yet let you add user parameters to a specific door in the door library, Phill adds them to the construction method instead, editing the frameless construction method under the “other” category.
He creates four user parameters, all simple number type:
- petal separation — distance from the centroid; he uses approximately 1/2 inch
- petal length — long axis of the petal; he tries approximately 2.5–3 inches
- petal width — short axis; he uses approximately 1 inch
- petal elevation — measured from the top of the door down to the centre line; he uses approximately 9 inches
After entering them he uses Save As rather than overwriting, and warns: do this on a fresh job (or save as a new construction-method version such as “frameless blind data (petals)”) so you do not clobber someone’s existing Job Parms. Once saved, the door library can read these parameters.
How do I draw one petal as a pocket?
Make a copy of a base shaker door first (he copies a shaker 2-1/2 inch stile/rail door, panel recess 1/4 inch). Name it with the PAC convention — e.g. S00001C for a custom door — then Edit the panel. Once you start editing the panel you cannot go back and change the base, so set the panel up first.
Add a pocket operation (not a closed tool path). For the first petal:
- Start at the centre of the door using formulas — X at
partL, Y atpartW/2(these are Mozaik reserved variables; all entries are formulas, not fixed numbers). - Place four points, with two points stacked on the same spot so you get two centre-line segments to bulge.
- Select each line and set its bulge to
petal width / 2— that half-width is what makes the ellipse shape. - Position the petal along the door: from the top,
partL - petal elevationputs you on the centre; add/subtractpetal separationandpetal lengthto place the ends. - Copy/paste points to keep formulas consistent; the values you have edited stay highlighted blue so you can tell them apart.
He then copies that petal and mirrors / repeats it for the remaining petals (mirroring the Y with partW - (…) to flip to the other side).
How do I set the pocket depth and which tool cuts it?
Set the pocket depth with a formula — Phill uses door.th (the material thickness reference) so the pocket goes the full door depth. Crucially, turn on “use pocket tool” on the operation. Mozaik then always picks the largest pocket tool that can fit inside the pocket, so it clears the bulk with the big tool and uses a smaller tool (a 3/8 inch compression) only where the big one cannot fit. The radius of whatever tool reaches the tip is the radius you are left with at the point of the petal, so choose the tool for the look you want.
What do I set in the Optimizer?
Open Optimizer, then CNC tooling > ATC tool sets. Make sure a tool is actually flagged as Pocket (Frost, Vortex, Royair, Mano, etc. — pick yours). In pocket options, choose raster or spiral and add a small radius (he uses approximately 1/4 inch). Phill warns this is a global change: if you alter pass depth on a shared pocket tool, set it back afterward, especially if you are not the person who owns the optimizer settings. On a Shop Saber he cautions that raster can sometimes dive into reduced rails.
What about cutting-edge length and tool safety?
This is the warning Phill leads with. You must have enough cutting-edge length to cut all the way through the cutout. A 3/4 inch door with a 1/4 inch panel pocket leaves about 1/2 inch of material; a short 1/8 inch down shear with only a 1/2 inch edge will break the moment the shank touches the material. He recommends a long 1/8 inch up shear (a down shear works too, but he prefers the up shear), and notes the through-cut perimeter pass happens after the pocket.
How do I upgrade it with a CNC panel tool group?
Instead of assigning a single perimeter tool, Phill shows the “pro” upgrade: create a CNC panel tool group (CNC > panel tool group > Add a group), name it e.g. S00001 shaker petal cutout, and assign a long 1/8 inch up shear (he uses a Frost up shear). Set it to cut on the centre line, use through cut, and confirm the pass depth (the Frost up shear came in at 0 pass depth, so he sets it — e.g. approximately 0.1875 — or adds the tool multiple times to keep his preferred pass depth). For full engagement all the way around the little pocket, he offsets the tool by a small negative amount (about -0.01) so the bit stays engaged on the pocket border (the green line) rather than leaving bumps in the corners. Then re-point each petal’s operation at this tool group instead of a bare tool.
Inside vs centre — where does the tool cut?
Phill stresses this: a pocket operation cuts on the inside of the line (what you want here), while a closed tool path cuts on the centre of the line. With the upgraded centre-line tool group plus the small negative offset, the perimeter bit stays engaged around the ellipse and gives a clean edge.
How do I tune the pattern after it is built?
Once it is set up you can change petal width, length, separation, and elevation live from Job Parms — click off into white space in the elevation/3D view, open Job Parms, and the whole job auto-refreshes (on v14.1+ Mozaik also autosaves). Phill’s design tip: check that the gap from the top petal to the stile/rail matches the gap elsewhere, and make sure you do not end up with a fixed shelf sitting right behind the vent holes — it looks bad through the openings.
Can I reuse the petals on other doors?
Yes. As long as the same construction method is open in the job, you can open the door panel, go to the operations tab, highlight the petal operations, copy, and paste them onto any other door profile. Save the test job so you always have the petal setup to come back to.
Get it done-for-you
You can set this up by hand (above). If you build these regularly, PAC MDF Door Profiles from PAC has it ready in Mozaik. → phillanton.com
Full disclosure: Phill Anton Consulting makes this product.
FAQ
Can Mozaik make a true parametric ellipse?
No. As Phill Anton Consulting explains, Mozaik cannot draw a true parametric ellipse. You approximate each elliptical ‘petal’ with four points (two pairs stacked) and a bulge on each centre line equal to half the petal width, which gets very close.
Why use a pocket instead of a closed tool path for vent holes?
A pocket clears all the material out, so you avoid the loose ‘puck’ in the centre that can get tossed across the shop or jar loose and break a small bit. A pocket op also cuts on the inside of the line, which is what you want for a clean cutout.
What tool length do I need to cut through a 3/4 inch MDF door?
Enough cutting-edge length to reach all the way through the material. On a 3/4 inch shaker door with a 1/4 inch panel pocket, you have about 1/2 inch left, so a short 1/8 inch down shear with only a 1/2 inch edge will not clear it. Phill recommends a long 1/8 inch up shear (or a long down shear) so the shank never rubs the material.