Adding a new door profile to Mozaik's Frost inset MDF face-frame library means recreating the double door, the base end panel, and a matching CNC tool group for your chosen profile. In this Phill Anton Consulting walkthrough the profile is the inside bead. The key gotchas: copied doors have frozen pocket depths (reset them), and because the inside bead's stile/rail is 2-5/8 versus the shaker's 2-1/4, you add the 3/8 difference everywhere rather than rebuilding from scratch.
When do you need to do this versus just copy-paste?
This is for shops that have already set up the standard Frost inset and want a different profile (here, the inside bead). Phill calls it intermediate-to-advanced. If your new profile has the same combined stile/rail width as the original double door (2-1/4) and the same panel recess, you don't need the full process — you can simply copy and paste the original double door. The full rebuild below is needed because the inside bead's stile/rail is different (2-5/8) and the panel recess may differ too.
How do you start the new double door?
Go into the Routed tab and bring in another door from another library. From the PAC MDF doors, import the door file for the inside bead (you could also export from one library and import into the Frost CNC library). Then open the original Frost double door and copy it to use as the base for the new inside-bead double door.
Rename carefully — naming is critical to avoid a mess later. Drop the "Frost" naming style, keep a classic underscore convention, append an F to mark it as a Frost profile, name the profile (inside bead), and end with double to indicate it's a double door.
Why can't you just change the panel recess on the copied door?
When you copy a door that's already been edited, the pocket depths are frozen — the panel-recess field may still show a value, but changing it won't update the actual pockets, so you'd machine bad material on the CNC. You have to reset the part instead. After resetting, click the panel, name it pocket, set the pocket recess to 0.25, then re-add the mid stile.
Before doing this, confirm the open tool path is set to the Frost 8 inch cut-through (set this up ahead of time).
How do you reuse the good operations from the original double door?
There's useful information inside the original double door worth keeping. Click edit > operations on the original, highlight the middle (center) operation, and copy it. In the new copied double door, reset, add a mid stile, set the pocket recess to 0.25, then on edit > operations paste that tool path down the center.
How do you handle margins for the wider inside-bead profile?
The Frost shaker margins were 2-1/4; the inside bead is 2-5/8 — a 3/8-inch difference. Rather than reinventing the wheel, add the difference:
- +0.375 to the bottom margin
- +0.375 to the top margin
- Twice that on the center rail (+0.375 then another +0.375)
You're just adding the difference of the stile widths.
How do you copy the hinges over?
The new door is missing its hinges. Go back into the original double door, edit, zoom out and flip it over. Only two of the three hinges are visible. In the operations tab, unhide the operations (they re-hide on close), highlight all three hinges, and copy. Back in the inside-bead double door: click the door > edit > operations, flip it over, and paste. The third hinge looks absent but is hidden in the background — it's really there.
How do you build the base end panel?
Look at one of the original base end panels — everything is just wider, because the Frost face-frame stiles/rails default to 1-1/2 inch. Copy a base end panel (naming it with BEP) and, on the bottom, keep the standard 4 inch for the toe; everywhere else (bottom, top, and stiles) add +1.625.
If you opted for wider stiles/rails, don't add 1.625 — add your stile/rail width plus 1/8 inch for the reveal. (The wall and tall end panels are basically the same, except wall panels don't get the extra 4 inch toe.)
How do you create the matching CNC tool group?
The new style needs its own tool group. Open the optimizer, go to libraries and CNC tooling, and scroll to the bottom where the Frost CNC entries live (standard pocket, standard beaded end panel). A square end panel isn't in the download — you make it by copying the beaded end panel and deleting what makes it beaded (the two add-ons). To build the base/end panel for the new profile, add the two down shear tools to your profile.
Copy the existing setup, then keep everything clustered with the other Frost CNC entries and rename consistently — simplify the verbose "Frost CNC" naming, mark entries with F, and end up with inside bead, inside bead, and inside bead square end panel. Use whatever naming system you prefer, but keep it consistent.
Which down-shear tool should the tool group use?
When converting over, the original tool group used an 8 inch down shear, but you want the Frost 8 inch down shear. If you know the only real difference is pass depth, you can use whatever you like — but keep the dedicated Frost 8 inch down shear (it can be the same tool with different tool properties). Ideally you've created a separate Frost inset tool set to keep this isolated. The cut-through tool stays the same unless you're doing something wild.
How do you set the tool offsets for the wider profile?
On the square end panel, change the down-shear tool out and insert the two tools in the proper order: click tool number three, add a new tool right where you want it, and paste the information over it.
This is the critical step — the offsets must account for the inside bead being 3/8 wider on the stiles/rails:
- The first tool offset reads approximately -2.3125. Because the profile is 3/8 wider, go into the offset and add +0.375 to shift it over.
- The second tool offset reads approximately -2.6875. Some people find this groove a little too deep; you can keep it at 1/4 inch if you don't like painting inside the groove.
How do you verify the new profile in a cabinet?
Apply the new parts and check the geometry. In end panels, choose the inside-bead 1.25 base end panel, then find the inside-bead square end panel at the bottom of the list — you should see the 1-1/2 inch styling rail and the combined 2-5/8 from the edge to the inside of the profile.
For the double door, bring in the two-section and one-section. Open it, do a multiple split vertical (two doors, no stile), take the left door and hinge it left, take the right door and delete it to keep those mounting plates, then override the door with the inside-bead double override and confirm the correct tool group.
Finally, adjust the frame over by the needed amount. Pro tip: enter this as decimals to the tenth of a millimeter so you don't shift the wrong distance and get weird offsets between the frame and the cabinet box. Working from approximately 16.437 lands on 16-7/16 negative, and confirms roughly 2-5/8 across the front. As long as that front-face measurement matches the other side, you're good.
Get it done-for-you
You can set this up by hand (above). If you build these regularly, PAC MDF Door Profiles from PAC has it ready in Mozaik. → phillanton.com
Full disclosure: Phill Anton Consulting makes this product.
FAQ
Can I just change the panel recess on a copied Frost inset double door in Mozaik?
No. When you copy an already-edited double door, the pocket depths are frozen even if the panel-recess field still shows a value. Editing the field alone machines wrong on the CNC — reset the part and re-enter the recess (Phill uses 0.25).
How do I adjust margins when the new profile's stile/rail width differs from the Frost shaker?
Add the difference rather than rebuilding. The shaker is 2-1/4 and the inside bead is 2-5/8 (a 3/8 difference), so add +0.375 to the top and bottom margins and twice that on the center rail.
How much wider is a Frost base end panel for a wider profile?
The Frost face-frame stiles/rails default to 1-1/2 inch, so add +1.625 to the top, bottom, and stiles, plus the standard 4 inch on the bottom for the toe. If you went wider, add your stile/rail width plus 1/8 inch for the reveal instead.